We are on our way back to base after several fantastic weeks exploring the Ionian Islands. We did not manage the same mileage as last year of course, but this trip was all about getting a feel for Greece and exploring a few islands. We did achieve a circumnavigation however, all be it the rather small Meganisi Island, so that’s something! Plus we spent most of the time warm and dry, as opposed to some very chilly weather last year, as we made our way from Bangor, NI to France.
So on Wednesday, 8th May, we left Abelaki Bay and made our way north to Lefkas, where we had arranged to meet up with Lu and Rod Heikell, who write the cruising guides for most of the Mediterranean. We have previously met them at a Cruising Association meeting in London and Kerry had kept in touch with Lu.
Lu advised us to tie up on a particular pontoon when we arrived at Lefkas, but when we looked at our cruising guide (written by them) it did not seem to exist. Kerry sent Lu a photo of the correct page from the book and Lu sent it back with a crudely drawn (presumably with her finger on her phone) pontoon- sorted! Sounds like we need to buy the 11th edition for an update of Lefkas.
We met up with them that evening and they signed our 10th edition Ionian Cruising Guide, reassuring us that we did not need the 11th edition- just draw in anything new with a pen! Lu and Rod have fantastic knowledge of all the cruising grounds in the area and lots of sailing experience generally, having sailed all around the world on their blue water yacht, Skylax. We met them for drinks on Skylax, before getting a tour and then going to a local taverna for dinner (and more drinks!). We are definitely hardening up to the local wine, which is rather too drinkable.
The next day we were slightly the worse for wear, but nevertheless decided to dig out the folding bikes and take a trip up the canal to the old fort, which stands at it’s entrance. We had visited it last year by hire car, but could not resist another trip.
The wild flowers at the old fort were out in bloom and Kerry took a strange obsession to photograph all the poppies. Maybe the heat had got to her?
After the cycle we had our habitual siesta then met up with a couple from the adjacent pontoon (Marilyn and Malcolm). We had spotted their Cruising Association burgee, which gave us an excuse to go over and introduce ourselves. Another night of drinking wine and eating Greek food followed, as we exchanged cruising stories.
On Friday we needed to leave early for Preveza, firstly because the pontoon was booked by a flotilla company over the weekend, and secondly because strong headwinds were forecast and we wanted to get to Preveza before they arrived. We set off at around 07:40, which felt horribly early, skipped breakfast, and headed to the opening bridge at the end of the Lefkas Canal, to catch the 08:00 opening.
We followed a couple of boats ahead of us towards the opening bridge, with plenty of time to spare. Just after 8am the bridge opened and we patiently waited for the yacht in front of us to go through. Then we waited some more and a bit more. Kerry tends to say what she is thinking under these sorts of situations and she did not say anything about the yacht ahead of us that I feel is appropriate to repeat. They were doing about one knot and it looked like the bridge would close, trapping us on the wrong side. We could see the bridge operator coming out of his hut and waving the annoying yacht on, in an exasperated manner. He started to sound his very loud klaxon to signal the bridge would be closing and I watched the expression on Kerry’s face change from extreme frustration to ‘someone is about the die’ mode. Not something that you ever want to witness — trust me!
There was actually a motor boat behind us as well, also getting very frustrated (we moored next to them at Preveza) and sounding their horn. As we eventually made it to the bridge it started to close, but we were just the right side of it, as was the motor boat behind us, who made a frantic dash so as not to be crushed by the floating bridge as it turned. What a palaver. Fortunately (for them) the slow yacht ahead of us (who seemed completely unaware of our existence) set off in a different direction to us, so Kerry did not get the opportunity to zap them with her ‘drop dead’ eyes!
Once tied up in Preveza Marina we planned the jobs that would need doing before we had to come out of the water. The thought of the long jobs list, plus the drama of the early morning, made us very tired though, so we decided to treat ourselves to a very late breakfast and then skip lunch so to make a start on a very early siesta. After a few minor jobs we headed to the showers and then dinner at our favourably local taverna- Celeste, right in the marina.
On Saturday we did more jobs on Barberry. The big one was removing the sails and folding them. Kerry does not like this job as it is hot and bothersome (neither do I much). We are as patient as we can be with each other, but all the same a little bit of grumpiness often escapes into the open. We carried the sails onto the wide pontoon to fold, which made life a bit easier, as before we have had to fold them on the boat, where there is way too little room.
After the sails it was time for Dingleberry, the inflatable dinghy. She was washed, dried, deflated and manhandled onto the foredeck — glad that one’s over. Next it was the turn of the standing rigging, sheets, etc. Basically all the ropes that operate the sails. These needed to be dismantled or covered to protect them from UV degradation over the summer months. It was a lot of work, but after a wee rest I somehow found the energy for a jog. Mainly because I had spotted an intriguing old fort on Goggle Maps and was keen to investigate.
The fort was just within jog-able range, so I made it there and checked for an entrance. There turned out to be one, hidden around the corner, as reported by one of the Google reviews. I took a few photos then headed back to Barberry, with plans to explore more the next day.
That night we tried a different taverna to our usual, but alas it was not as good, although cheaper. My face dropped as they gave us ouzo ‘on the house’, as I knew Kerry doesn’t like it, so I needed to drink two. It would be impolite not to!
The following morning, feeling a little tired after an evening of garlic-laden food and ouzo, we dug the bikes out for one final time and set off for the newly discovered, abandoned fort. It was completely deserted when we arrived, which was actually a bit eerie, especially when exploring darkened rooms. I admit to jumping a little when a pigeon popped out of a hole in front of me.
Even though the whole place was crumbling around us and extremely overgrown, we found a beautifully kept little church in the middle of it all- imagine that!
Sunday is our last day in Preveza, then we are off to Cleopatra Marina for lift out on Monday and then catching our flight home on Tuesday. It’s been a great few weeks, but don’t worry, there is still plenty left for us to explore in Greece. Until next time!