Return to the Island of Vagabonds

We were worn out after our trip from NI back to Greece on Monday 22nd September and adjusting to the heat again, but nevertheless, we felt compelled to get our arses in gear and do some adventuring. Kerry spotted a two-day weather window that was perfect for a trip to Trizonia Island in the Gulf of Corinth. It was our favourite place last year, with a ramshackle marina, full of all sorts of sailing vagabonds. Many of these live-aboard sailors have drifted around the Mediterranean for years, before coming to rest in the peace and slow life of the island.

Before setting off we had jobs to do. The first thing was another precious stamp on our transit log. For this we found the Port Police in Preveza. Guess what? They are upstairs again. Kerry’s knees do not like this. I could almost hear the cartilage crunching as she went. As usual, we were met by a stern officer, who examined all our ships papers and then asked for more papers. This is a nerve-racking business! Kerry (for the first time ever) had to produce her skipper’s licence, which fortunately she had a photograph of on her phone. The female officer (they have always been male before) then mellowed a little, as it seems that we had passed and would not need to go to Greek prison. She even provided advice about getting an Unlimited Transit Log (UTL), which would mean never requiring a stamp again. Such things dreams are made of!

We excitedly marched off to the Customs Office to ask about the UTL, which is of course at the other side of the marina, but at least does not have stairs. The officer there was very helpful and did glance as Kerry’s big pile of boat bumph, before telling us that the procedure now was all online. He reassured us that there was an English version of the form though (hmmm?).

We got back to Barberry and Kerry enthusiastically tore into the application and did well with questions like, ‘What is your name’. Unfortunately she then slowed considerably as she discovered that the form was only initially in English, and all the drop-down selections were still in Greek! She heroically persevered though, complemented by non-repeatable mutterings, under her breath. Hours later she pronounced it finished, then realised it wasn’t and about another hour later pronounced it finished again. She was glad to see it gone, but had a nagging doubt that it would return to haunt her.

I pulled my weight as well, by wandering off to buy a wee gas stove for the cockpit (fed up with the paraffin one in the galley, and a little scared of it) and also renewing our roaming data.

On Wednesday we had an early start and set off in the dark (6.10am) to make the 8.00am bridge opening at Lefkas. We had light winds but made it all the way to the anchorage at Ormos Oxia, which was a 9 hour passage and almost half way to Trizonia Island. Spotted two turtles too! When we arrived we tried our new Rocna anchor and it seemed to hold, although we were wary, as this was where our old CQR anchor let us down last year. It seems that the seabed is very hard, with a lot of sea grass.

We had a lovely swim to check the anchor, which was not particularly well sunk in, but at least seemed to be the right way up. Then it was dinner time and a chance to try some cockpit cooking. The little camping stove was actually a pleasure to use and much cooler than using the paraffin stove in the confines of the stuffy galley. We had meatballs and gnocchi — delicious! Washed down with Greek wine from a winebox, naturally.

As we sat in the cockpit and watched other boats come in to anchor we spotted a Southerly yacht. This is a make of yacht that we once owned ourselves and had fond memories of. When I looked closer I saw the name ‘Options’ written on the stern. Oh my God, these our YouTube heroes, Sailing Options. We are big fans and watch them on TV. They also travelled to the Mediterranean via the French canals. Before I could think I shouted over, ‘Hello Sailing Options!’ They looked around and we went giddy with excitement. Kerry rushed to the bow and shouted for them to come over for a drink. Before long they were at our stern and climbing aboard, drink offerings in hand.

We had a great chat, with a few laughs! Sheena and Jonathan were a lovely couple, even better in real life! We’re going to keep in touch.

We had a pleasurable sail to Trizonia the next day (all be it with another early start), and the wind behind us for a change. We actually managed 6.5 knots through the water, but less than this ‘over the ground’ at times, as there are strange currents in the Gulf of Patras. We go under a big bridge, called Rio-Antirio and were required to call them on vhf radio for permission, since there are a lot of ferries about. We called from 5 miles away and they answered. We were quite surprised at this, as we had had no luck getting through to them last year and thought that our radio aerial was still dodgy. Clearly it wasn’t, although, since that incident, I had taken apart and checked every connection in the aerial wire, including at the top of the mast. Seemingly I had let out the evil spirits at some stage in the process.

We really wanted the same spot that we had last year at Trizonia marina, but knew it would be unlikely, as it’s a great, side-to spot, with plenty of shelter. When we arrived it was busy enough, but lo and behold, our space was free and we popped straight in. Next was an amazing swim in one of our best swimming spots, with clear water and lots of fish. Even an octopus. There is also a shower on the beach and we have got used to the awkwardness of washing ourselves in the public eye!

That evening we had dinner at Ostria Taverna. They remembered us from last year and the service was great, even giving us complimentary ice cream and an unusual liquor called Mastika. The taverna owner has his fishing rod set up at the water’s edge and occasionally reels it in to check for fish. I was wondering if he puts any fish he catches on the menu, but it turns out he gives them to the local cats, of which there are many.

Kerry has taken to drinking white wine with ice in it. At some point during the evening she somehow managed to spill a full glass, plus the ice, straight into my lap. She found the whole thing quite amusing, but did apologise in-between giggles. I never did find the ice…

Friday was a bad day. The customs sent an email reply to Kerry’s UTL application, requesting more evidence of where Barberry had been since 2020. This involved digging out many old receipts and crumpled bits of paper from our chart table. These then all had to be digitalised, reduced in file size and returned along with a lengthy explanatory email. This took ages and Kerry took on all the computer work, with me just trying to flatten out the bits of paper. Lunchtime came and went. I tentatively suggested food, but to no avail. It seemed that lunch was just a passing fantasy for me and I would need to hold on patiently for dinner. I went for a long walk and came back with Kerry still in the thick of it. I tried not the speak or footer (added by Kerry: Scottish for fiddling around in irritating manner), as Kerry was in concentration mode. Hours later it was done. A quick swim cured Kerry of her computer headache and we were very ready for dinner.

Having skipped lunch we felt that we both deserved a decent dinner. Kerry for working hard, and me for …I’m not sure what for. Kerry ordered the XXL pork chop. It came on a plank of wood, as it’s much too long for a plate. She devoured it all, except the bones, of which there were many. Kerry is a natural at protecting her food. Trust me, I have the scars to prove it. However, it seems that the Greek cats have the better of her, and, in the blink of an eye, all the bones were gone off her plate. It was so fast she didn’t actually see any cats, but what else could it have been?

Kerry will fill you in on our continuing adventure at Trizonia and beyond next week. Hopefully we will dodge the thunderstorms and rain!