We may have mentioned (the odd time) about how peaceful Abelaki Bay is, and how much we enjoy the calm, sheltered bay with its great snorkelling. That’s why we spend so much time there. What Fraser didn’t mention in his blog last week was that our peace was shattered by an invasion of 50 chartered yachts, all part of the same flotilla belonging to a Romanian company (which shall remain nameless as I don’t want to give them any free advertising!). We were happily swimming in the next bay round from Abelaki after a long walk when we heard a bass beat and club-style music, extremely loud. As we walked back, it became clear that it was emanating from this giant flotilla. They had placed rock concert speakers on the roof of a giant catamaran and were making sure every corner of the tiny island could appreciate their taste in music.
The poor taverna owners had not been given any warning of this onslaught, so they had to call in extra help from friends and family to cover the sudden increase in business. Usually, flotillas let the tavernas know in advance how many will be arriving, so the taverna can stock enough food and drink, and have enough staff, but this lot did not. It was a stressful evening for them and a noisy night for us, with loud music until 05:30.
Luckily they only stayed one night but the next morning there was chaos as the flotilla headed out all at once with lots of shouting and fast RIBS speeding around the anchorage. They were off to annoy someone else, and we hoped we’d seen the last of them. Sadly, we hadn’t.
We were very excited for the release of our new book, which happened while we were in Abelaki Bay. Here’s a link to it if anyone would like to buy it direct from the publishers.
On our last evening at Minas Taverna, Patrick noticed a small creature crawling on his hand. It was an absolutely tiny Praying Mantis! His sisters, on seeing the photo, reminded us what happens to the smaller male of the species once the female has had her fun, so Patrick kindly released it into a (hopefully) safe space before it got its head bitten off by a passing female.
We left the pontoon at Minas at 09:30 in order to catch the noon bridge opening on the Levkas Canal (there are repair works ongoing there so the bridge only opens three times a day during the week, which makes it quite challenging), and the boys decided they’d have one last go at catching fish, this time from the boat. Fraser prepared his precious (and barely-used) squid lure and Patrick let out the line, buzzing with speculation about whether they’d catch a Tuna, a Mahi Mahi, or even a Swordfish. Sadly, they very quickly had to bring the line back in as numerous boats cut across behind Barberry, and Fraser was worried he might lose his squid.
As we approached the Levkas Canal, we began to see several of the conspicuous Romanian flotilla boats converging on the same place, as well as dozens of other yachts, both private and chartered, of all nationalities. This was going to be crazy! With a brisk cross wind and very limited wiggle room on the canal, it was a tense time as we waited for the bridge to open. We later heard that there had been 100+ boats passing through that opening with more coming from the south like us than from the north. As we were in the first 10 or so boats in the queue, we couldn’t see the numbers but we definitively knew we’d never seen so many here before. The bridge, apparently, stayed open for 45 minutes instead of its usual 10, and even then some boats didn’t get through. Others told us of angry motorists honking horns and jeering at the passing boats, but luckily we escaped that unpleasantness. Fraser helmed us through the mess beautifully, his calm nature a godsend in the chaos. Needless to say, the Romanian boats were trying to push into the queue in an aggressive manner.
Finally we escaped the traffic and managed a great sail to Preveza on a beam reach the whole way to the marked channel. We had 12-15kn of wind, perfect for Barberry to settle into her stride, and we sailed at least as fast as we could have managed on the engine, but no diesel used and no pollution left behind. We reached Cleopatra Marina and were assisted into our berth by one of the marineros, Thomas, who pushed Barberry’s bow around against the strengthening winds with his powerful RIB. It was good to be tied up, and once we had the boat ship-shape we all rushed to the showers and then for dinner in the marina restaurant.
On Saturday morning, after breakfast out, we walked with Patrick to the airport, about a 30-minute walk, and sadly waved him goodbye. We had wheeled our folding bikes with us, so now we unfolded them and cycled back to the boat. We set off as soon as we’d got the gangplank aboard, but we didn’t go very far. We’re now across the bay in Preveza Marina for a while, where we can have access to shops, tourist stuff like ancient ruins, and, best of all, really good showers!
While in the marina, we took the opportunity to wash all our bedding and towels. It was only when I was bringing in the dry sheets from the line Fraser rigged at the bow that I noticed a suspiciously fishy smell. Looking down into the dinghy, I realised we’d had an unwanted stowaway in Dingleberry, our tender. Cue Fraser and the litter picker that we inherited with the boat!
We use the Brompton bikes to go swimming every afternoon at a local swimming beach. There are many beaches near Preveza, but we usually go to the nearest one, just past the Sailor’s Monument. It’s near the narrowest part of the channel into the Ambracian Gulf, so the currents can be ferocious at times, but there’s a lovely local lifeguard on duty to warn swimmers not to go too far from the shore. Fraser is trying to train for a triathlon he’s entered for in August, so he likes to get in some hard miles against the current. Unfortunately several elderly Greek swimmers spotted him swimming out there and thought they could do it too, leading to lots of whistling by the lifeguard and Fraser, slightly embarrassed, having to swim a bit closer to shore!
We like to get a bit of cycling in most days, so Fraser can practice the cycle part of the triathlon. As I ride an electric bike, I usually let him set the pace so I don’t make it too hard for him, but recently I’ve taken to overtaking him at speed every chance I get, so he’s mentally prepared for what will happen in the actual triathlon. I should add that he’s going to be doing that triathlon on a folding bike! He feels he has nothing left to prove, having been competing in triathlons since he was a teenager, and as he no longer has a road bike, he’s just going to use the folding bike he has at home for the race.
Today’s bike ride took us along the coast as far as a village called Kalamitsi. On the way we discovered several amazing beaches and a small harbour that looked deep enough for Barberry.
We also went for a paddle at the beach of Paralia Drosia where we discovered a giant bee hive inside the rocky cliff face.
The water here was beautifully clear and clean, and the sand was smooth and golden, not stony like most of the beaches we see around here. It reminded us both of the beaches along the north coast of Cornwall.
After a paddle, and exploring some caves, we headed back to the bikes for the cycle home.
Of course Fraser can never resist exploring any cave or hole he finds:
Or sentry box…
The old fortress we discovered on the way back was too intriguing to refuse, so we locked the bikes up and headed on in. I’ve edited out the offensive graffiti.
Once inside, the area was huge and there were many buildings and tunnels to explore. Fraser tried to talk me out of entering a three story building, but I couldn’t help myself. Budding urban explorer, me, or at least until I heard noises from upstairs! Then, I left faster than I arrived, but it was only a couple of Greek teenagers, also exploring.
After being chicken about the taller buildings, Fraser promptly disappeared down into a spooky basement, but his nerve also broke once he realised how extensive (and dark) were the cellars.
After exploring all the corners of the site, we finally discovered that was a lovely sloping path into the fortress from the road, at the other side to our dodgy secret entrance. We could have just cycled up there like civilised humans instead of ducking under rusty metal and stepping over broken sheets of asbestos.
Oh well, at least we had an adventure! Next week, Fraser can tell you about some of his projects on the boat and what else we get up to during our last couple of weeks in Greece.